Thursday 15 December 2011

Enlightenment from the City of Light

Trip to Paris


On my updated 2011 bucket list, I wrote ‘Trip to Paris in December’ but when John asked me why, I couldn’t exactly give an answer –‘it’s just one of those places you just had to tick’ – he wasn’t convinced. So I said, well maybe we’ll do it next year. But as though a manifestation of what I have learned on the Law of Attraction, he did manage to get us a £10 flight on Ryanair from Manchester airport on a last minute booking and my Schengen visa conveniently arrived five days before the trip.

This was not my first trip to a European capital where English is not as widely spoken but never before had I been met with such apprehension about the language barrier. Perhaps it is because of the French reputation on insisting to speak in their own language in their own soil sometimes to the point of being rude. But if I were to enjoy this adventure, I had to give Paris a chance.


Why Paris and what is the future of the EU?
Whilst on our way to Manchester, John marvelled at how a post about going to Paris would generate more likes in Facebook than my highly contemplative piece about my pilgrimage home. I said, maybe because in popular culture it is the ‘Capital of Romance’ as portrayed in most Hollywood movies. He looked no less confused.

On a more serious note, he shifted his attention to the effects of a possible EU meltdown, how his hero David Cameron can hope to revamp the British economy and how Germany manages to maintain a reasonable budget deficit as though his wife has an answer to everything. We particularly delved over the issue on how a developing/developed country can prevent itself from being a victim of its own success.

Touchdown Paris
We were only on the air for 45 minutes and the plane descended on the outskirts of Paris with the view of the lakes and the countryside from our window. Landing on a small airport meant waiting on the queue for ages behind a group of young Italians chatting up a girl straight out of ‘The Only Way is Essex’, who when asked if she speaks any other language boldly claimed that in the UK, ‘we only speak English as our educational system is rubbish’. I marvelled at how perfectly she has embodied her stereotype and was not surprised at the slowly waning attention she was receiving.

Travelling by the Metro
We took the Metro from the bus terminal to the hotel and were greeted by traditional French music from an accordion resonating throughout the underground. Paris has the second densest metro networks in the world and the second busiest in Europe, after Moscow. We’ve noted that no two stops have the same interiors with a number of stations decorated to reflect the cultural significance of their locations while some stations are theme-decorated.

Our first ride was on the fully automated La Defence line which I found impressive with its platform edge doors preventing anyone from accidentally falling on to the track. I told John that this is an example of what causes some countries to have budget deficits – to pay for common sense or lack thereof.

But not all lines have been modernised as on most lines we took, we were carried by steel-wheel trains travelling 20kph that it was quicker to walk from one stop to another.

Quickest Welcome
Our hotel is advertised to be ‘located on a quiet street near the bustling Place de la Republique’ but didn’t say that road works would likely wake you up at 8am. For a two-star hotel though, it was very good value for the discounted price that we have paid for. A plus point in fact is the speedy check in process where we did not even need to utter a single word to the receptionist, we just handed the printed reservation and were given the room keys. In fact, we did not need any contact with the hotel staff during our whole stay.

Brasserie or KFC?
We’ve left Sheffield at 10am but only got to our hotel after 8pm. We must have taken all modes of land transport (except the car) in one day – tram to Sheffield Station, train to Manchester Airport , plane to Paris Beauvais, bus to Paris city centre and metro to the hotel. So when we got to our hotel room, we were not thinking of starting our adventure, rather on how we can fill our stomachs.

True to its name as the Capital of Gastronomy, there was a cornucopia of cafes and restaurants at every corner. For dinner, abrasserie – restaurant serving inexpensive three-course meals – is a place to be. Fortunately, French law requires restaurants to post their menus outside so visitors have a chance to check the type of food served and the prices so we were properly informed that these inexpensive meals cost around €30/person. But as we were to spend four days in Paris with only €250 in our pocket, we shamelessly ended up in McDonalds our first night and migrated to good old KFC the next two nights, costing us only a quarter of what we would have paid otherwise.

Patisserie Culture
We did find ourselves inside the local patisserie (bakery) for our le petit dejeuner (breakfast) of café crème (coffee with milk) – which was served lukewarm, apparently to preserve coffee flavours – and a choice of pain au chocolat (my latest daily craving) or croissant.

The whole place reminded me of the movie One Day set in Paris, with bread lining up the wall, pastries on the shelves and sweets on the glass display. An added bonus is a square window showing thepattisier (pastry chef) kneading his bread – what could be more ambient!

What made the greatest impression to me though are the fashionable and helpful young shop assistants who looked so passionate about their occupation. This was a sharp reminder that in this part of Europe , people are actually able to chase after their dreams and embrace their chosen profession with dignity. They are known for picking their opening hours as well, so don’t be surprised to find your favourite patisserie shut in the middle of the week.

This is my favourite bit of Paris. It is a culture completely different from where I came from – of overworked and underpaid workers from fast food and café chains who sees their jobs either as a stepping stone to a better job or a means to pay the bills or their education, of success defined by your pay check and of passions too expensive to pursue.

...to be continued

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